Dining Tip: Ultimate Cheese Plate

These eight cheeses are brand new to the U.S. market and perfect for a tasting party.

FIOR D'ARANCIO

Upon superficial examination, this cheese, from Latteria Moro Oderzo, about 30 miles northeast of Venice, might seem a tad overelaborated—literally and figuratively. But when you taste it, does it ever work! Made from cow milk, it's studded with candied orange peels and macerated in the DOCG dessert wine of the same name, which means "orange blossom."

Sharp, moldy flavors are quickly alleviated by rheumy, yeasty and bittersweet tones. It plays a ticklish trick on your palate before settling into a satisfying sweetish aftertaste that practically screams dessert, and demands the last word in this lively lineup.

David Gibbons is co-author of Mastering Cheese.