Italians describe the octopus in this rustic preparation as affogato, or drowned, in red wine.
The result is a rich, complex, and deeply flavored dish. Luxembourg-based private chef Leonardo De Paoli recommends topping the braised octopus with shavings of Ubriacone, a cheese that is similarly bathed in vino.
“The cheese is the median between the wine and the fish, mellowing out the complexity of the sauce,” De Paoli says. Grano offers an alternative route: Dust the tentacles with a fruity blue such as Fourme d’Ambert, breadcrumbs, and parsley, then finish in the oven like a gratin to crisp it all up.